Alauda; or, Elaborate Names and the Year of the Stash

This is a throwback post published on June 20, 2008.

I’ll have to fess up and say that a rather disproportionate amount of joy for me comes from naming knits for designing.
This is a case in point.

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Pattern: Alauda
Yarn: oh, a few scraps. Methinks it was
1) Brown Louisa Harding “Grace”
2) Orange Manos Silk Blend
3) a couple different yellow/golden shades of Handmaiden’s “Silk Maiden”
4) white Elsebeth Lavold “ClassicAL”

Why I made it:
My hands were unbelievably cold at work.
Why it’s got such a highfalutin name?
I love the naming. I love the organizing and labelling and making odd and rather twitsy-turny connections. In this instance, I knew I wanted to use some pretty stash scraps, hence the idea of a “legion”, expand that to a particular legion (one of Caesar’s Gaulish legions, see here)
and to top it all off, this particular Alauda word morphed into the modern French word Alouette, which is denotative of a small bird.
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Gratuitous Butters photo:
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If you want to make a pair:
step 1 – get scrap (all same gauge)
step 2 – measure around knuckles to get # of sts cast on (1” neg ease)
step 3 – cast on and knit knit knit in a rectangle til the piece measures to your wrist (if you want to add the YO row, just work one YO, k2tog across the fourth row).
step 4 – cast off and stitch together edge, leaving thumb holes!

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This post has been brought to you by procrastiknitting.

Alauda; or, Elaborate Names and the Year of the Stash

Wee Spencer Christened the Anne Elliot

This is a throwback post published on May 3, 2007.

Introducing my Anne Elliot
on Ravelry

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Specs:

Yarn: Wendy Yarn – Peter Pan 2 ply
Needles: 2.25 mm
Pattern: My own, after the Guess Spencer (sketchy notes to be added if by popular demand)
Things I’d change:
More careful with buttonholes – they don’t all match up.
Sleeves should be smaller – they’re a bit baggy as is. When I inevitably make a second Spencer, this will be more carefully calculated (instead of just “well, it took 90 stitches across the back…)
Also along button edge – I’ve been knitting for years now and so have no excuse for this mistake, but instead of making the under-button edge garter, I made it stockinette, which of course leads to the wonderful curling-under that is quite visible in the photo.
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The yarn itself is very stretchy, and blocked out quite nicely (except for the rust-stains caused by evil pins).

What colour should I make next? I’m digging the golds and greys as of late.

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Pattern

Please let me know if you see any glaring errors. I didn’t keep the best notes going along. I hope this isn’t too convoluted.

Sized for a 36″ bust. You can read my suggestions for pattern-improvement.
Gauge: 7 sts/inch
Yarn: Wendy – Peter Pan 4 ply
Needles: 2.5 mm
Extras: seven 1 cm buttons, tapestry needle.
Warning: crochet ahead!
Hook: 3 mm

You can block the Spencer to make the lace look nicer. Just don’t use pins that will rust! (yes, I did).

Double Seed Stitch:

Row 1 – *K2, p2. Repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 – As row 1.
Row 3 – *P2, k2. Repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4 – As row 3.

Clover Lace:

Rows 1 and 7 – K
Row 2 and all Wrong side rows – P
Row 3 – K2, yo, sk1, k2tog, psso, yo, *k5, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo*, rep from * to *.
Row 5 – K3, yo, ssk, *k6, yo, ssk*, rep from * to *.
Row 9 – K1, *k5, yo, sl1, k2tog, psso, yo*, rep from * to *.
Row 11 – K7, *yo, ssk, k6*, rep from * to *.

Back

CO 82 sts
work 1×1 ribbing for 1 cm (0.5 inch)
work double seed stitch for 6 cm (2.5 inches)

Begin clover pattern, and begin increases. Increase 1 st on each side on the Front Side of the work until piece measures 23 cm (9 inches) long.

(I had to fudge the pattern for the increases. What I did was placed markers at the beginning stitches, and continued the pattern as normal within the markers. When there was enough stitches outside the markers – which is seven, I believe – I worked those in pattern).

Shaping armholes:

When piece measures 21 cm (8 inches) long, begin shaping armhole by dec 2 sts on each side of Front of work for six rows. Then dec 1 st each side until piece measures 28 cm (11 inches). Arm holes are now shaped.

Continue in clover pattern until piece is 36 cm (14 inches) long.

Front Panels:

Work two. Just remember to reverse the neckline and arm hole shaping!
At this point, choose which side you want the buttons on, and which side the button holes.
CO 38 sts (this is what I did, but I recommend casting on a few more. I found the front panels to be a bit small).

Do the same shaping for the front panels as you did for the back, save for the 6 sts along what will be the buttonhole edge. Here I just kept the knitting in sockinette.

Button holes:

You create the first buttonhole on the first row of double seed stitch, and from then on place the buttonholes at approximately 2.5 cm (1 inch) intervals.
All I did was work 2 sts on buttonhole edge, cast off 2, and continue in pattern. Then on the next row, you just CO 2 sts over the space created by the 2 you cast off.

WHEN THE FRONT PANELS MEASURE 8 INCHES
Begin neckline shaping. (this is also when you begin armhole shaping!)

Neckline Shaping:
Cast off 18 sts to create beginning of neckline. You should have about 30 sts left.
Now you continue to shape the neckline edge by dec 1 st along neck edge every Front side row. Continue dec in this manner until you have 12 sts left. Work until front panels are same length as Back.

Sleeves:

Make two.

CO 70 sts.
Work 1×1 ribbing for 1 cm (0.5 inches).
Begin clover pattern.
Work in pattern until piece measures 4 cm (1.5 inches).

Begin shaping sleeve.
Dec. 1 st each side of Front of work until you have 2 sts left (my sleeves ended up being 16 cm/6.5 inches long).

Finishing:

Sew up side seams, shoulders and sleeves. Place and sew buttons.
Pick up sts along neckline (sorry, I didn’t count them), and knit two rows in stockinette. This makes a nice edge for you to create the crochet trim upon.

Neckline crochet:
Starting at one edge of neckline, make 1 sc.
Skip 2 sts.
Make five dc in next st.
Skip 2 sts.
Slip-stitch this down.

There you have the mini-shell that I used all the way around the neckline. Just continue the pattern til you get all the way around the neckline. I consciously kept my crocheting a little looser, because I was afraid it would pucker the knitting and look funny.

Suggestions for improvements to pattern:

If I were making this pattern again, I would add an inch-worth of extra stitches to the bust area (I would spread this out across the front panels, so I’d add 0.5 inches to one side and 0.5 stitches to the other).

I would also attempt to do it in the round, at least for the bottom half. I only suggest this because I dislike sewing seams.

I suggest creating a row of garter stitch on the edge of the front panel where the buttons will be sewn. This will make the fabric want to lay flat, rather than curl under like the original does.

Here is a pathetic Paint diagram of the measurement I took of the Spencer. If you can measure your own gauge, you can fit the pattern to you and your own yarn/needles/tension.
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Wee Spencer Christened the Anne Elliot

Corona Deuxième: Or; How I Learn to Keep Notes

This is a throwback to a post published on August 20, 2008.

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Pattern: Corona
Yarn: about 3.5 balls of Cascade 220
Needles: My beloved Boye interchangeables (methinks it’s 5mm… whichever are the light pink ones)

Changed from first Corona: had to make the sleeves a bit wider at the bottom (this’ll be reflected in the pattern).

Having already knit this sweater once, I’m able to directly compare the effects of expensive vs. economical yarn choices.

Both the Cascade 220 and the original Dream in Color “Classy” yarn were nice to work with. Neither had any knots in any of the hanks, the plies stayed together nicely (although if agitated, the Cascade would split a very small bit), the stitch/cable definition is perfect and the yardage count per hank is awesome-o.
Where the Dream in Color zooms ahead of the Cascade is in the beautiful colour and texture. Soooo very smooshy and inviting. If you’ve got the cash and you want a sweater to dive into, then this would be the way to go.
The Cascade 220 was exactly half the price of the Dream in Color, and this you can tell by its rougher texture (though not itchy! I wouldn’t buy it if it were) and overall less elegant feel.
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I’ve worn the Dream in Color Corona a few times, and can happily report pilling has not been an issue. I’ve only put on the Cascade Corona for the photos, and I fear that pilling may be imminent. When I was buying the yarn the cashier actually asked me if I was planning on felting a bag because “This yarn is really great for that!”
Yipes.
Ah well, I may or may not have a trick up my sleeve. I’ve heard through the grapevine that liquid glycerin, mixed with some water for a knit-soaking, will solve the pilling problem. I have as of yet to get my hands on the elusive liquid, but I’ll definitely get back to you if it actually works.
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These photos were taken pre-blocking, so the hood edge looks a bit floppy and rolly. It’s easily fixed. (What can I say – I was excited that the day dawned bright and sunny!)
As for the pattern – since I’ve now completed this one, I have the info required to write up other sizes. Me and the maths are not the best of buds, so I’ll have to be very nice to it and see if it’ll cooperate with me and produce accurate numbers for all. The plan is to have it written up and ready to go by the end of the month.

***PATTERN***
unfortunately, I’ve tried to paste it here, but it just won’t work with me.
Please see it here on Rav.

Corona Deuxième: Or; How I Learn to Keep Notes

Complete Corona

This is a throwback to a post published on June 16, 2008.

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Pattern: Corona (download now)
Yarn: Dream in Color – Classy, 3 hanks (almost exactly)

I’ve decided to leave off the pocket on this hoodie – the majority of opinions swayed to the “no pocket” vote.

I’m very happy indeed with how this turned out. The yarn is so soft and sproingy (yes, technical term) that I can’t wait to purchase another batch for another project (and at this point, I foresee another one of these hoodies in the near-knitting future).

The honeycomb cable panel was sourced from a stitch dictionary. I haven’t ventured into the wide world of cable design for a while (first and last time was the Alatus).

I’m not miffed about the hood being pointed, rather elven-like. I’ve had a few good suggestions as to where I can find a pattern for a flat-top hoodie, and will probably play around with that for the next hooded-knit.

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One thing I would change (and you can’t see it in these pics at all) is the sleeve-tightness around the bottom. I need to find a happy balance between sleeves that sit snug to your arm, and ones that don’t leave little ribbed-rows on your skin!

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As you can probably tell, I had a hand with these photos. It certainly pays off to get another human around to take the pics (in daylight!) so that the colours of the yarn can show properly. And these colours are quite lovely – they remind me of (80s child warning) a particular Strawberry Shortcake plastic figurine I had as a child. She smelled of strawberries 🙂 Plasticy, plasticy strawberries.
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Now that my three week love affair with this knit is over, I feel anxious to get started on a fresh idea. It just might kill me to wait out the next 21 days til the annual tent sale at the The Needle Emporium.
I will try to focus on writing up notes/a pattern for this knit.
Stay tuned.

***PATTERN***
unfortunately, I’ve tried to paste it here, but it just won’t work with me.
Please see it here on Rav.

***ERRATA***
It blinded me with the maths!
Here are the discovered errata for the pattern:
_______________________________________

These are the 2 things I found and re-calculated:
1. On the arms, the size medium should have a total of 40 stitches (pattern says 42) on the stitch holder. We started with 52 stitches and placed 12 on scrap yarn, so that equals 40.

1. After re-calculating increases/decreases and accounting for the arms being added and other stitches being placed on holders, this is what I came up with – I re-typed this section of the pattern:

Joining Arms to the Body
Pick up Body and knit to 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts before first side-marker.
Put these 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts on scrap yarn. Remove side marker, and put the following
4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts on scrap yarn.
Place marker, pick up and k the 40 (40, 40, 48, 52, 54, 64) arms sts not on scrap yarn.
Place marker.

K across back of sweater until 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts before second side
marker. Place these 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts on scrap yarn, remove marker, and place
following 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts on scrap yarn. Incorporate second arm in the same
manner as the first. K across front of body and cable panel.

You.ve just joined the sleeves, and will graft them together at the armpit during finishing.
You now have 200 (210, 220, 252, 300, 316, 356) stitches not including those on scrap yarn.
Work one WS row.

Thanks to michelleh13 on Ravelry!

_______________________________________

At the bottom of page 2, after creating the extra 20 stitches for the cable, it says:

Work around body, and when you return to the beginning of the cable panel, work the sts
you placed at the back of the work. (you should k2, p2, k12, purl 2, knit 2).
Now you have 124 (
135, 148, 200, 216, 236) sts for the body.

Since after the 1st increase row it said:
You now have 104 (114, 128, 144, 180, 196, 216) sts.

and we added 20 stitches, so the line at the bottom of page 2 should read:

Now you have 124 (134, 148, 164, 200, 216, 236) sts for the body.

_______________________________________

Errata or my mistakes (Size S)??

At the bottom of page 2
X Now you have 135 sts for the body.
O Now you have 134 sts fot the body.

In the middle of page 3
X You should have 147 sts
O You should have 146 sts

After joining the arms to the body, I have only 210 sts on the needle and 8×4 sts on the scrap yarns, instead of 221 sts. Did I make mistakes? I’m confused. But I try on this sweater, it fits. I don’t find any problems so far.

When there’s 6 sts left on each sleeve:
RS: K to marker, sm, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, sm, K across back, sm, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1 sm, k to end of row.

At the beginning of the hood, I have only 98 sts, instead of 110 sts. But the sweater still fits well.

_______________________________________

Complete Corona

Lovegood; Or, Yes I Can Make a Cardi

This is a throwback to a post published on July 16, 2008.

DOWNLOAD NOW

Howdy from a sunny July day and the just-finished Lovegood.
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Pattern: Lovegood
Yarn: about 3.5 balls of Manos Silk BlendI likes this yarn so very much.
I don’t think I can say that enough.
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Originally I was envisioning belt loops for this one, and the ability to wear said belt at either just under the bust or natural waistline. As it happens, I’ve made it a touch too short to wear the belt at my waist. Methinks it’d look a bit funny. And, the belt stays put, so no need to add the loops.

The neckline turned out how I wanted (thankfully!) in that I wanted it wide and almost off the shoulders. The sleeves aren’t as big and flowy as I wanted, but I’m satisfied with them.

I’m undecided about the wood buttons, though. In my zeal to get this one completed, I grabbed the only flat-fronted, right-sized wood buttons the store had – and now I suspect they’re too contrastive to the yarn. * le sigh.
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But, my enthusiasm level for this one remains at the moderately high level (I gave it the smiley, but not super-smiley, face on Rav). It’s certainly wearable and much needed for my summertime wardrobe.

The lace panels are just “Snowflake Lace” from one of my few stitch dictionaries.

And here’s a little guy who hopped on by during the outdoors photo shoot.

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******Pattern NOTES*******

Lovegood Cardigan Notes

Size:
Made to fit me, which is approx 35” bust.

Materials:
3.5 hanks of Manos Silk Blend
9 buttons (15mm across)

Needles:
3mm, 3.5mm, and 4 mm circular needles

Gauge:
(Don’t ask how, but)
On 3mm – 5.5 sts/1”
On 3.5mm – 5.5sts/1”
On 4 mm – 5 sts/1”

Cast on 165 sts using 3mm circs.
Divide stitches with place markers as follows:
28 (for left front)
27 (for left sleeve)
56 (for back)
27 (for right sleeve)
28 (for right front)

Do garter rib for 6 rows.

GARTER RIB:
Right side: K1, p1 to end.
Wrong side: Purl across.On next Right Side (RS) row:
Switch to knitting in stockinette st.
Begin raglan increases.
To do this: increase one stitch on each side of each place marker each right side row.

AT THE SAME TIME:
Begin lace panel on arms. Place this in the middle of the arm.

LACE PANEL (6+1 multiples)
Row 1 – knit 1 *yo, skpo, k1, k2tog, yo, k1. Repeat from * to end
Row 2 – and all wrong side rows, Purl to end
Row 3 – Knit 2, *yo, knit 3. Repeat from * to last 2 sts, then yo, knit 2.
Row 5 – Knit 2 together, yo, skpo, knit 1, knit 2 together, *yo, sl 1, knit 2 together, psso, yo, skpo, k1, knit 2 together. Repeat from * to last 2 sts, then yo, sl1, psso.
Row 7 – knit 1, *knit 2 together, yo, knit 1, skpo, knit 1. Repeat from * to end.
Row 9 – Work like row 3.
Row 11 – knit 2, * knit 2 together, yo, sl1, knit 2 together, psso, yo, skpo, k1. Repeat from * to end.

Work this way, making raglan increases and knitting lace panel, until piece measures 2” from the cast on. Switch to 3.5 mm needles.
Add two more lace panels on each arm.
To do this: place them halfway between the original lace panel and each stitch marker.
Continue in this manner, creating raglan increases and working each arm’s 3 lace panels, until piece measures approx. 5” from the cast on.
At this point the arms should have a couple inches of positive ease on your arm.

Now place all of each sleeve’s stitches on waste yarn, and knit across all body stitches.
Place a lace panel directly under each arm pit.
Work back and forth across body, knitting each side’s lace panel for approx. 2.5”.
Switch to 4 mm needles.
Add a lace panel to each side of already established lace panels.
Work in this manner, knitting stockinette across and 3-repeat wide lace panels under each armpit for approx. 2.5”.
Now add one more lace repeat to each side of each panel. Now you’re repeating the lace 5 times on each side of the garment’s body.
Knit in this manner for approx. 4”.

Begin Garter Rib for bottom:
Switch to 3.5mm needles, and work garter rib for 6 rows.
Cast off.

Sleeves:
Take stitches off waste yarn and begin knitting in established pattern with 3.5mm needles for 1”.
Switch to 4 mm needles, and knit in established pattern until arm measures approx. 4” from armpit.
Work 6 rows of garter rib.
Cast off.

Button Band:
Using 3mm needles, pick up every 3 of 4 sts, for a total of 81.
Work garter rib for 6 rows.
Cast off.

Button Hole Band:
Using 3mm needles, pick up every 3 of 4 sts for a total of 81.
Work garter rib for 2 rows.
Make buttonholes:
RIGHT SIDE: Knit 2 sts in pattern, cast off 2, continue in pattern. Repeat this so that buttonholes are approx. 1.5” from each other. There should be 9 buttonholes. (When I made mine, I placed them a little askew. But I blocked it out, and you can’t tell the off-placement).
Next row: WRONG SIDE: purling across all stitches, cast on for the two stitches you cast off on the previous row in the places where they’re missing.
Knit one more row in pattern, then cast off all stitches.

Belt: Cast on 331 sts with 4 mm needles.
Do 6 rows of garter rib.
This makes a belt that’s just over 5 feet long.
____________________
Errata:

  • Number of stitches to cast on: 166
  • Number of stitches for the lace pattern : 6+6+1 (if you want all the instructions to be done)
  • The 3 omissions in rows 5, and 11 of the lace pattern
    (added March 2011)

 

Lovegood; Or, Yes I Can Make a Cardi

Flying Fox: Here Comes the Summer

This is a throwback to a post published on April 28, 2008.

Call me the procrastination knitter: when I set myself to get something done, I end up knitting something else instead.
Here’s an example:

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Pattern: Flying Fox (notes posted below)
Yarn: almost 5 entire skeins of Elsebeth Lavold Silky Tweed

I’m semi-pleased by the way this one turned out.
I originally had envisioned incredible batwing sleeves for this knit (hence the name – oh how I love naming the knits!). Unfortunately, my impatience to get this one on the way had me skipping important forethought regarding the shaping. I’m sure if I actually thought about it, I could have made it look more like the vision in my mind.
I also had to exercise some big-time will power to refrain from gussying this one up. As you can see (if you’re familiar with any of my other designs) I gravitate towards the prettily-detailed. This one is decidedly minimalist. This was a tactic, so that I could focus on the drapey sleeves and neckline.

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I fear the yarn is discontinued: I read that somewhere on the internets. Then again, I read lots of stuff on the internets. I hope it isn’t, because I really really love this yarn. Lovely and drapey.

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Please don’t mind the smirky grin on me face.

Awaiting me at home is yet more procrastin-knitting. I’ve just had some golden Debbie Bliss Pure Silk wound into usable yarn-balls. There’s also some scarletty bamboo that’s calling my name.
And here comes the summer!
*****
Pattern notes:

gauge – 22 sts=4″ on 4 mm needles

Cast on 108. Join for knitting in the round.
Place marker at the beginning of the round; work 2×2 ribbing across 54 sts, place marker, work 2×2 ribbing for the rest of the round.
Knit 2×2 ribbing for 11″.

When piece measures 11″, work increase row:
You will begin working back and forth.
*increase 1 st into next 3 sts, knit 1*
repeat until you reach side marker, increase into last 2 sts
(95 sts across the front now)

Slip marker, add new yarn, increase into first st, knit 1,
*increase 1 st into next 3 sts, knit 1* repeat until next marker.
This is the back. I recommend leaving this side to work until you’ve completed the front.

Working the front:
Turn work to wrong side facing, purl across.
Next row: Right side facing, knit across.
Next row: Wrong side facing, cast on 24 sts, purl across, place marker after these 24 sts, purl across sts, place marker, cast on 24 sts.
Next row: Right side facing, knit across all sts.

Knit these 119 sts until sleeve measures 2.5″.
At 2.5″, work as follows until sleeve measures 4.5″:
Right side facing – knit across sleeve, slip marker, decrease one st, knit across front until 2 sts before marker, decrease one st, slip marker, work across sleeve to end of row.
Wrong side: purl.

When sleeve measures 4.5″:
stop working these decreases, and simply knit the right side of the work and purl the back until the sleeve measures 8″.

When sleeve measures 8″:
Right side facing: Decrease 2 sts at each end of every row five times.
Wrong side: purl.

After you’ve completed all 5 decrease rows, cast off.

Work back same as front.

Sewing back and front together:
I simply stitched the front and back together, beginning at the first decrease-row worked when the sleeve was 8″ long.
(the sleeve will be slightly curved here. I just began stitching at this curve).
I stitched each side together for 5 inches.
******

 

Flying Fox: Here Comes the Summer

Hew; or, what I did in Toronto

This is a throwback to a post published on March 7, 2008.

I’d like to announce to the knitworld that I love Manos Silk.
Here’s what it told me to make it into:
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Pattern: Hew (available as a pdf download on Ravelry. I have, rather unfortunately, not figured out the delicate art of pdf-ing).
Yarn: 2 skeins of Manos Silk

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This pattern was a bit of a departure for me. Usually I think on a design for quite a while, sketching and dreaming. Hew just grew itself, in a manner that I’m certainly not used to when it comes to knitting. It was a very organic process, which brought me to a wearable and rather enjoyable finished garment.

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My issues: because it was such an ‘organic’ knit, it’s a bit loose in some areas and a bit tight in others. It sort of works out, but I’ve found myself tugging at the bottom edge and re-tying the ties every once in a while to keep it below-bust.

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I’ve kept pattern notes this time, so I hope I can accurately tell you knitgentry (for this I shall title you) how it grew and how to make it grow for other sizes.

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Hew
By CanarySanctuary
http://canaryknits.blogspot.com

Size:
Bust 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54)

Materials:
Manos Silk 2 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5)
4 mm circs (16” or longer)

Gauge:
5.5 sts / 1” on 4 mm needles

Pattern Notes:
Garter Rib: RS – K1, P1 to end
WS – P all stitches

This garment is constructed as a top-down raglan, with minimal seaming.

**Note: please be understanding. This is the first pattern I’ve attempted to size!

Pattern:
Cast on 96 (102, 114, 128, 132, 146, 150, 168, 168, 182, 182) sts.
Knit across 6 (6, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18) place stitch marker, knit in garter rib 12 (12, 16, 18, 18, 22, 22, 26, 26, 28, 28) place marker, knit 60 (66, 66, 72, 72, 78, 78, 84, 84, 90, 90) place marker, knit in garter rib 12 (12, 16, 18, 18, 22, 22, 26, 28, 28) place marker.
Arms are now marked for raglan increases.

From now on, do raglan increases in the manner written below until stitches for back number 82 (88, 90, 94, 96, 98, 98, 100, 100):

Raglan increases:
Knit across 6 (6, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18), slip the marker, increase 1, knit ribbing across arm stitches until one stitch before marker, increase 1, slip the marker, increase 1, knit across back stitches until 1 stitch before marker, increase 1, slip the marker, increase 1, knit ribbing across arm until one stitch before marker, increase 1, slip the marker, knit to the end.

When you have the number of stitches for the back, continue increasing for the arms (but not for the back!) until they fit comfortably around your upper arm.

When the arms fit around your upper arm:
Knit along front 6 (6, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18), slip the marker, cast off all arm stitches, take off second marker, knit across back, slip marker, cast off all arm stitches, take off second marker, knit until the end.

Increasing for bust:
Right Side Rows: Knit 1, increase 1, knit across all stitches until 2 stitches from the end, increase 1, knit 1.
Wrong Side Rows: Purl.
Work in this manner until number of stitches for front are 22 (22, 32, 32, 44, 44, 56, 56, 66, 66, 78).

***KEEP TRYING ON THE GARMENT to see how far it’s coming down your bust.
When you put the shrug on and it comes down 1 inch below your bust, begin the ties.

Ties:
With the RS facing, cast on 200 (206, 212, 224, 224, 230, 236, 247, 247, 260, 260).
Work garter rib across to end. Cast on 100 (103, 106, 112, 112, 115, 118, 121, 121, 124, 124).
From this point on, work garter rib, decreasing one stitch at the end of every row.
When the ties are 1 (1, 1, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 2, 2, 2, 2) inches wide, cast off all stitches.

Neckline:
Work entire neckline in garter rib.
Pick up 20 (20, 26, 26, 32, 32, 38, 38, 44, 44) along top of left tie.
Each RS row, pick up one stitch from edge of neckline and knit it together with first stitch of garter rib.
Work in this manner all the way around the edge of the neckline until you get to the right tie.
Finish off by grafting/Kitchener stitching the garter rib neckline to the top of the right tie.

Hew; or, what I did in Toronto