Complete Corona

This is a throwback to a post published on June 16, 2008.

Pattern: Corona (download now)
Yarn: Dream in Color – Classy, 3 hanks (almost exactly)

I’ve decided to leave off the pocket on this hoodie – the majority of opinions swayed to the “no pocket” vote.

I’m very happy indeed with how this turned out. The yarn is so soft and sproingy (yes, technical term) that I can’t wait to purchase another batch for another project (and at this point, I foresee another one of these hoodies in the near-knitting future).

The honeycomb cable panel was sourced from a stitch dictionary. I haven’t ventured into the wide world of cable design for a while (first and last time was the Alatus).

I’m not miffed about the hood being pointed, rather elven-like. I’ve had a few good suggestions as to where I can find a pattern for a flat-top hoodie, and will probably play around with that for the next hooded-knit.


One thing I would change (and you can’t see it in these pics at all) is the sleeve-tightness around the bottom. I need to find a happy balance between sleeves that sit snug to your arm, and ones that don’t leave little ribbed-rows on your skin!

As you can probably tell, I had a hand with these photos. It certainly pays off to get another human around to take the pics (in daylight!) so that the colours of the yarn can show properly. And these colours are quite lovely – they remind me of (80s child warning) a particular Strawberry Shortcake plastic figurine I had as a child. She smelled of strawberries 🙂 Plasticy, plasticy strawberries.
Now that my three week love affair with this knit is over, I feel anxious to get started on a fresh idea. It just might kill me to wait out the next 21 days til the annual tent sale at the The Needle Emporium.
I will try to focus on writing up notes/a pattern for this knit.
Stay tuned.

unfortunately, I’ve tried to paste it here, but it just won’t work with me.
Please see it here on Rav.

It blinded me with the maths!
Here are the discovered errata for the pattern:

These are the 2 things I found and re-calculated:
1. On the arms, the size medium should have a total of 40 stitches (pattern says 42) on the stitch holder. We started with 52 stitches and placed 12 on scrap yarn, so that equals 40.

1. After re-calculating increases/decreases and accounting for the arms being added and other stitches being placed on holders, this is what I came up with – I re-typed this section of the pattern:

Joining Arms to the Body
Pick up Body and knit to 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts before first side-marker.
Put these 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts on scrap yarn. Remove side marker, and put the following
4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts on scrap yarn.
Place marker, pick up and k the 40 (40, 40, 48, 52, 54, 64) arms sts not on scrap yarn.
Place marker.

K across back of sweater until 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts before second side
marker. Place these 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts on scrap yarn, remove marker, and place
following 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts on scrap yarn. Incorporate second arm in the same
manner as the first. K across front of body and cable panel. just joined the sleeves, and will graft them together at the armpit during finishing.
You now have 200 (210, 220, 252, 300, 316, 356) stitches not including those on scrap yarn.
Work one WS row.

Thanks to michelleh13 on Ravelry!


At the bottom of page 2, after creating the extra 20 stitches for the cable, it says:

Work around body, and when you return to the beginning of the cable panel, work the sts
you placed at the back of the work. (you should k2, p2, k12, purl 2, knit 2).
Now you have 124 (
135, 148, 200, 216, 236) sts for the body.

Since after the 1st increase row it said:
You now have 104 (114, 128, 144, 180, 196, 216) sts.

and we added 20 stitches, so the line at the bottom of page 2 should read:

Now you have 124 (134, 148, 164, 200, 216, 236) sts for the body.


Errata or my mistakes (Size S)??

At the bottom of page 2
X Now you have 135 sts for the body.
O Now you have 134 sts fot the body.

In the middle of page 3
X You should have 147 sts
O You should have 146 sts

After joining the arms to the body, I have only 210 sts on the needle and 8×4 sts on the scrap yarns, instead of 221 sts. Did I make mistakes? I’m confused. But I try on this sweater, it fits. I don’t find any problems so far.

When there’s 6 sts left on each sleeve:
RS: K to marker, sm, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, sm, K across back, sm, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1 sm, k to end of row.

At the beginning of the hood, I have only 98 sts, instead of 110 sts. But the sweater still fits well.


Complete Corona

Lovegood; Or, Yes I Can Make a Cardi

This is a throwback to a post published on July 16, 2008.


Howdy from a sunny July day and the just-finished Lovegood.
Pattern: Lovegood
Yarn: about 3.5 balls of Manos Silk BlendI likes this yarn so very much.
I don’t think I can say that enough.
Originally I was envisioning belt loops for this one, and the ability to wear said belt at either just under the bust or natural waistline. As it happens, I’ve made it a touch too short to wear the belt at my waist. Methinks it’d look a bit funny. And, the belt stays put, so no need to add the loops.

The neckline turned out how I wanted (thankfully!) in that I wanted it wide and almost off the shoulders. The sleeves aren’t as big and flowy as I wanted, but I’m satisfied with them.

I’m undecided about the wood buttons, though. In my zeal to get this one completed, I grabbed the only flat-fronted, right-sized wood buttons the store had – and now I suspect they’re too contrastive to the yarn. * le sigh.
But, my enthusiasm level for this one remains at the moderately high level (I gave it the smiley, but not super-smiley, face on Rav). It’s certainly wearable and much needed for my summertime wardrobe.

The lace panels are just “Snowflake Lace” from one of my few stitch dictionaries.

And here’s a little guy who hopped on by during the outdoors photo shoot.


******Pattern NOTES*******

Lovegood Cardigan Notes

Made to fit me, which is approx 35” bust.

3.5 hanks of Manos Silk Blend
9 buttons (15mm across)

3mm, 3.5mm, and 4 mm circular needles

(Don’t ask how, but)
On 3mm – 5.5 sts/1”
On 3.5mm – 5.5sts/1”
On 4 mm – 5 sts/1”

Cast on 165 sts using 3mm circs.
Divide stitches with place markers as follows:
28 (for left front)
27 (for left sleeve)
56 (for back)
27 (for right sleeve)
28 (for right front)

Do garter rib for 6 rows.

Right side: K1, p1 to end.
Wrong side: Purl across.On next Right Side (RS) row:
Switch to knitting in stockinette st.
Begin raglan increases.
To do this: increase one stitch on each side of each place marker each right side row.

Begin lace panel on arms. Place this in the middle of the arm.

LACE PANEL (6+1 multiples)
Row 1 – knit 1 *yo, skpo, k1, k2tog, yo, k1. Repeat from * to end
Row 2 – and all wrong side rows, Purl to end
Row 3 – Knit 2, *yo, knit 3. Repeat from * to last 2 sts, then yo, knit 2.
Row 5 – Knit 2 together, yo, skpo, knit 1, knit 2 together, *yo, sl 1, knit 2 together, psso, yo, skpo, k1, knit 2 together. Repeat from * to last 2 sts, then yo, sl1, psso.
Row 7 – knit 1, *knit 2 together, yo, knit 1, skpo, knit 1. Repeat from * to end.
Row 9 – Work like row 3.
Row 11 – knit 2, * knit 2 together, yo, sl1, knit 2 together, psso, yo, skpo, k1. Repeat from * to end.

Work this way, making raglan increases and knitting lace panel, until piece measures 2” from the cast on. Switch to 3.5 mm needles.
Add two more lace panels on each arm.
To do this: place them halfway between the original lace panel and each stitch marker.
Continue in this manner, creating raglan increases and working each arm’s 3 lace panels, until piece measures approx. 5” from the cast on.
At this point the arms should have a couple inches of positive ease on your arm.

Now place all of each sleeve’s stitches on waste yarn, and knit across all body stitches.
Place a lace panel directly under each arm pit.
Work back and forth across body, knitting each side’s lace panel for approx. 2.5”.
Switch to 4 mm needles.
Add a lace panel to each side of already established lace panels.
Work in this manner, knitting stockinette across and 3-repeat wide lace panels under each armpit for approx. 2.5”.
Now add one more lace repeat to each side of each panel. Now you’re repeating the lace 5 times on each side of the garment’s body.
Knit in this manner for approx. 4”.

Begin Garter Rib for bottom:
Switch to 3.5mm needles, and work garter rib for 6 rows.
Cast off.

Take stitches off waste yarn and begin knitting in established pattern with 3.5mm needles for 1”.
Switch to 4 mm needles, and knit in established pattern until arm measures approx. 4” from armpit.
Work 6 rows of garter rib.
Cast off.

Button Band:
Using 3mm needles, pick up every 3 of 4 sts, for a total of 81.
Work garter rib for 6 rows.
Cast off.

Button Hole Band:
Using 3mm needles, pick up every 3 of 4 sts for a total of 81.
Work garter rib for 2 rows.
Make buttonholes:
RIGHT SIDE: Knit 2 sts in pattern, cast off 2, continue in pattern. Repeat this so that buttonholes are approx. 1.5” from each other. There should be 9 buttonholes. (When I made mine, I placed them a little askew. But I blocked it out, and you can’t tell the off-placement).
Next row: WRONG SIDE: purling across all stitches, cast on for the two stitches you cast off on the previous row in the places where they’re missing.
Knit one more row in pattern, then cast off all stitches.

Belt: Cast on 331 sts with 4 mm needles.
Do 6 rows of garter rib.
This makes a belt that’s just over 5 feet long.

  • Number of stitches to cast on: 166
  • Number of stitches for the lace pattern : 6+6+1 (if you want all the instructions to be done)
  • The 3 omissions in rows 5, and 11 of the lace pattern
    (added March 2011)


Lovegood; Or, Yes I Can Make a Cardi

Flying Fox: Here Comes the Summer

This is a throwback to a post published on April 28, 2008.

Call me the procrastination knitter: when I set myself to get something done, I end up knitting something else instead.
Here’s an example:


Pattern: Flying Fox (notes posted below)
Yarn: almost 5 entire skeins of Elsebeth Lavold Silky Tweed

I’m semi-pleased by the way this one turned out.
I originally had envisioned incredible batwing sleeves for this knit (hence the name – oh how I love naming the knits!). Unfortunately, my impatience to get this one on the way had me skipping important forethought regarding the shaping. I’m sure if I actually thought about it, I could have made it look more like the vision in my mind.
I also had to exercise some big-time will power to refrain from gussying this one up. As you can see (if you’re familiar with any of my other designs) I gravitate towards the prettily-detailed. This one is decidedly minimalist. This was a tactic, so that I could focus on the drapey sleeves and neckline.


I fear the yarn is discontinued: I read that somewhere on the internets. Then again, I read lots of stuff on the internets. I hope it isn’t, because I really really love this yarn. Lovely and drapey.


Please don’t mind the smirky grin on me face.

Awaiting me at home is yet more procrastin-knitting. I’ve just had some golden Debbie Bliss Pure Silk wound into usable yarn-balls. There’s also some scarletty bamboo that’s calling my name.
And here comes the summer!
Pattern notes:

gauge – 22 sts=4″ on 4 mm needles

Cast on 108. Join for knitting in the round.
Place marker at the beginning of the round; work 2×2 ribbing across 54 sts, place marker, work 2×2 ribbing for the rest of the round.
Knit 2×2 ribbing for 11″.

When piece measures 11″, work increase row:
You will begin working back and forth.
*increase 1 st into next 3 sts, knit 1*
repeat until you reach side marker, increase into last 2 sts
(95 sts across the front now)

Slip marker, add new yarn, increase into first st, knit 1,
*increase 1 st into next 3 sts, knit 1* repeat until next marker.
This is the back. I recommend leaving this side to work until you’ve completed the front.

Working the front:
Turn work to wrong side facing, purl across.
Next row: Right side facing, knit across.
Next row: Wrong side facing, cast on 24 sts, purl across, place marker after these 24 sts, purl across sts, place marker, cast on 24 sts.
Next row: Right side facing, knit across all sts.

Knit these 119 sts until sleeve measures 2.5″.
At 2.5″, work as follows until sleeve measures 4.5″:
Right side facing – knit across sleeve, slip marker, decrease one st, knit across front until 2 sts before marker, decrease one st, slip marker, work across sleeve to end of row.
Wrong side: purl.

When sleeve measures 4.5″:
stop working these decreases, and simply knit the right side of the work and purl the back until the sleeve measures 8″.

When sleeve measures 8″:
Right side facing: Decrease 2 sts at each end of every row five times.
Wrong side: purl.

After you’ve completed all 5 decrease rows, cast off.

Work back same as front.

Sewing back and front together:
I simply stitched the front and back together, beginning at the first decrease-row worked when the sleeve was 8″ long.
(the sleeve will be slightly curved here. I just began stitching at this curve).
I stitched each side together for 5 inches.


Flying Fox: Here Comes the Summer

Hew; or, what I did in Toronto

This is a throwback to a post published on March 7, 2008.

I’d like to announce to the knitworld that I love Manos Silk.
Here’s what it told me to make it into:
Pattern: Hew (available as a pdf download on Ravelry. I have, rather unfortunately, not figured out the delicate art of pdf-ing).
Yarn: 2 skeins of Manos Silk


This pattern was a bit of a departure for me. Usually I think on a design for quite a while, sketching and dreaming. Hew just grew itself, in a manner that I’m certainly not used to when it comes to knitting. It was a very organic process, which brought me to a wearable and rather enjoyable finished garment.


My issues: because it was such an ‘organic’ knit, it’s a bit loose in some areas and a bit tight in others. It sort of works out, but I’ve found myself tugging at the bottom edge and re-tying the ties every once in a while to keep it below-bust.

I’ve kept pattern notes this time, so I hope I can accurately tell you knitgentry (for this I shall title you) how it grew and how to make it grow for other sizes.


By CanarySanctuary

Bust 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54)

Manos Silk 2 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5)
4 mm circs (16” or longer)

5.5 sts / 1” on 4 mm needles

Pattern Notes:
Garter Rib: RS – K1, P1 to end
WS – P all stitches

This garment is constructed as a top-down raglan, with minimal seaming.

**Note: please be understanding. This is the first pattern I’ve attempted to size!

Cast on 96 (102, 114, 128, 132, 146, 150, 168, 168, 182, 182) sts.
Knit across 6 (6, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18) place stitch marker, knit in garter rib 12 (12, 16, 18, 18, 22, 22, 26, 26, 28, 28) place marker, knit 60 (66, 66, 72, 72, 78, 78, 84, 84, 90, 90) place marker, knit in garter rib 12 (12, 16, 18, 18, 22, 22, 26, 28, 28) place marker.
Arms are now marked for raglan increases.

From now on, do raglan increases in the manner written below until stitches for back number 82 (88, 90, 94, 96, 98, 98, 100, 100):

Raglan increases:
Knit across 6 (6, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18), slip the marker, increase 1, knit ribbing across arm stitches until one stitch before marker, increase 1, slip the marker, increase 1, knit across back stitches until 1 stitch before marker, increase 1, slip the marker, increase 1, knit ribbing across arm until one stitch before marker, increase 1, slip the marker, knit to the end.

When you have the number of stitches for the back, continue increasing for the arms (but not for the back!) until they fit comfortably around your upper arm.

When the arms fit around your upper arm:
Knit along front 6 (6, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18), slip the marker, cast off all arm stitches, take off second marker, knit across back, slip marker, cast off all arm stitches, take off second marker, knit until the end.

Increasing for bust:
Right Side Rows: Knit 1, increase 1, knit across all stitches until 2 stitches from the end, increase 1, knit 1.
Wrong Side Rows: Purl.
Work in this manner until number of stitches for front are 22 (22, 32, 32, 44, 44, 56, 56, 66, 66, 78).

***KEEP TRYING ON THE GARMENT to see how far it’s coming down your bust.
When you put the shrug on and it comes down 1 inch below your bust, begin the ties.

With the RS facing, cast on 200 (206, 212, 224, 224, 230, 236, 247, 247, 260, 260).
Work garter rib across to end. Cast on 100 (103, 106, 112, 112, 115, 118, 121, 121, 124, 124).
From this point on, work garter rib, decreasing one stitch at the end of every row.
When the ties are 1 (1, 1, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 2, 2, 2, 2) inches wide, cast off all stitches.

Work entire neckline in garter rib.
Pick up 20 (20, 26, 26, 32, 32, 38, 38, 44, 44) along top of left tie.
Each RS row, pick up one stitch from edge of neckline and knit it together with first stitch of garter rib.
Work in this manner all the way around the edge of the neckline until you get to the right tie.
Finish off by grafting/Kitchener stitching the garter rib neckline to the top of the right tie.

Hew; or, what I did in Toronto

Le Lapin Noir

This is a throwback to a post published on March 16, 2008.

Hop hop.

on Ravelry


Pattern: Le Lapin Noir
Yarn: a whack of angora I bought many ages ago from Cottage Craft Angora

Why I love this one:
and oh, how I do!
Despite numerous mistakes (and I’ve learned to live with the multitude of errors I incorporate into each and every knit!) I love the fit, I like the shape, and it’s successfully fulfilled a search I have been undertaking to find the perfect argyle sweater for nigh on 2 years now.


Unless you’re looking for one, you probably wouldn’t realize that practically every bloody argyle sweater in stores has a v neck. I wanted a scoop neck.

Also, I’m fairly picky when it comes to the colours I wear. Though, I will hazard anyone interested in knitting a very small-gauge sweater in black: not so good for maintaining good vision.


I would have made 3/4 length sleeves (as is my way) but I ran out of black yarn. I think the short sleeves work alright, and are less incongruous than one would imagine on an angora sweater.

The yarn is amazingly dreamily soft. Just as soft (dare I say?) as the bellies of canaries. Highly recommended. Knit yourself an angora sweater.


This sweater was inspired by retro patterns and the angora yarn itself. I’d never worked with it before, and wanted to see how it behaved.
I’ve worn it a few times, and have found it to be sturdier than I would have imagined. I feared it would stretch to frightening proportions as soon as I was moving around in it. This didn’t happen at all.
I also feared it would pill horribly. This also hasn’t happened (yet).
As I understand angora is (one of the) warmest fibres one can wrap around a body, I feared it might overheat me. I had no such problems.
As you can see, it creates a beautiful halo of bunny-goodness all around you.
I didn’t block it (shock and horror!). I wasn’t sure how it would take to the water. I’m entirely pleased with the intarsia, though, and I don’t know that it would benefit from a blocking anyhow.


Le Lapin Noir
Spurred on by my inability to find a good argyle sweater, Le Lapin Noir was created with retro sweater-girl inspiration.
To make it a suitable warmer-weather knit, a light sock yarn could be substituted.Needles:
2.5 mm straights
2.25 mm circs (at least 18” long)

Cottage Craft Angora 100% angora yarn
Approx. 90 metres/hank (discontinued)
Black 8 (9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18) hanks
Pink 1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) hanks
White 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) hanks

8 sts/ inch
10 rows/ inch

XS: 28”-30”
S: 32”-34”
L: 40”-42”
XL: 44”-46”
XXL: 48”-50”
XXXL: 52”-54”


Using long-tail method and 2.5mm needles, cast on 92 (108, 124, 144, 160, 184, 200) sts.
Knit in 1×1 ribbing for 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) inches.
Decrease row: You will be decreasing 2 sts each side every time you do a decrease row.
K1, P2tog, K2tog, knit in rib across sts until 5 before the end of the row. Then Kl, P2tog, K2tog, P1.
*Continuing in rib, knit another 1 (1, 0.5, 0.5, 0.5, 0.75, 0.5) inches.
Work another decrease row as stated above.
Repeat from * 1 (1, 1, 3, 3, 4, 2) more times.
At this point you should have 80 (96, 112, 124, 140, 164, 184) sts.
Knit in rib until you have 6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) inches from the cast on edge.
Stop working rib, and begin working the intarsia chart.
Begin at number 1 (1, 1, 10, 10, 14, 13) listed at bottom of intarsia chart. This will centre your argyle on the sweater.
Work the chart for 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) inches.
Increase row: You will be increasing 1 st each side every time you do an increase row.
(Work argyle pattern in to increases).
K1, increase 1, work across row until 2 sts before end, increase 1, knit last st.
*Work another 0.5 inches.
Work increase row.
Repeat from * 4 (1, 4, 8, 8, 8, 6) more times.
You should have 96 (102, 124, 144, 160, 184, 200) sts.
Now you will continue knitting the intarsia until piece measures 13 (13.5, 15.5, 15.5, 15.5, 16.5, 16.5) inches from the cast on edge.
Work across 27 (32, 42, 50, 56, 66, 74) sts, put middle 38 (38, 40, 44, 48, 52, 52) sts on a stitch holder, work across the remaining 27 (32, 42, 50, 56, 66, 74) sts.
Work 2 rows
Cast off for armholes: (please read ahead – you’ll be shaping the neck at the same time!)
Cast off 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 12, 14) sts on each side of next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 st each side every RS row 4 (4, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) times.
Decrease 1 st each side of neck every RS row 12 times.
Work until arm holes measure 7 (7, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) inches.
Put sts on holders.


Work the back in the same manner as the front (excluding the intarsia chart) until neckline.
When piece measures 14.5 (14.5, 16.5, 16.5, 16.5, 17.5, 17.5) inches, put centre 38 (38, 40, 44, 48, 52, 52) sts on a stitch holder, and work the neckline the same as for the front.
Sew front and back together along sides, and graft/Kitchener stitch tops of front and back together.


Using 2.25 mm circular needles, pick up stitches along neckline, including the ones you’ve placed on stitch holders.
Work in a 1×1 rib for 1.5 (1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 2, 2, 2) inches.
Cast off (be careful: don’t cast off loosely!)


Cast on 76 (76, 88, 96, 108, 116, 128) sts.
Work 1×1 rib for 1 (1, 1.5, 1.5, 2, 2, 2.5) inches.
Begin Sleeve Cap:
Cast off 8 (8, 9, 10, 12, 12, 14) sts at the beginning of next 2 rows.
Knit in rib for 4 rows.
Decrease 1 st each side every other row 5 (5, 7, 9, 10, 14, 15) times.
Decrease 1 st each side every 4th row 10 (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10) times.
When sleeve cap measures 5.5 (5.5, 6, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5) inches, decrease 1 st each side every row 5 (5, 7, 7, 10, 8, 9) times.
When sleeve cap is 6 (6, 6.5, 7.5, 8.5, 9, 9.5) inches from cast on edge, decrease 2 sts each side every other row 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6) times.
When sleeve cap is 7 (7, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) inches long, cast off.


Sew sleeves onto body.
Weave in all ends.
Blocking the finished garment is optional (the original, knit in angora, was not blocked).


Intarsia can easily become a hassle of tangled ends. In order to keep sane, I wound and then cut off a few feet of each colour-section. This certainly did add to the number of ends I had to weave in come finishing time, but was slightly more manageable than large balls of yarn emanating from my work.

Think twice before you use black! (If only to maintain decent eyesight). You can’t imagine how frustrating it is to try and neatly sew up black knitted garments with tiny gauges!

Intarsia Chart
Garment Schematic

Le Lapin Noir


This is a throwback to a post published on September 19, 2007.

Alatus: Winged

On Ravelry

I must admit that Latin is not a strong point, but when I was thinking of what creative name I could come up with for this knit, I took the easy way out and simply described the item in another language. (sneaky creativity)
From the front, and unassuming (if extremely low-cut) sweater.

And from the back, my experiment with cable-mapping.

And un-modeled, depicting the truer-to-life chocolate brown loveliness that is Louisa Harding’s yarn.


Pattern: Alatus (self designed exploration of cable mapping)
Yarn: Grace by Louisa Harding (6 skeins)
Things I’d change: As usual, there are several. First, I’d add some more space to the front-sides around the neckline. I’d also curve the neckline a bit more too. It came out more square than I had envisioned. I’d be more careful about shaping the sleeve cap (since I had to pull them both out several times to achieve a normal-appearing shape). The sleeve-holes would be about an inch longer too. It’s not tight there, but there certainly could be more room. I’d also be more meticulous in my counting for the pattern. Unfortunately, up near the arm shaping, I ran out of room and had to sacrifice a feather or two.

What I love about it: mostly the yarn. It’s like butter. Oh so wonderful, and the most perfect shade of chocolate brown I’ve ever seen in a yarn. Highly recommended.
Three-quarter sleeve rock the boat. You save yarn, it still keeps you warm, and yet you don’t have to worry about the cuffs getting worn or crappy. It also saves time on the much-dreaded sleeve knitting.

This knit depends on another (as yet unfinished) knit for a large part of it’s prettiness. I’ll photo them together when/if I can get it completed before October 1. (mais oui, self-imposed deadlines once again).

I’ve been playing with the idea of posting the cable chart, but I think it’s only discernible by me.

Come on cold weather! I can’t wait to wear this puppy!

***Link to Pattern on Craftster***




Hot Water Bottle Cozy – Free Pattern!

This is a throwback from an original post on September 21, 2006.

This is my first attempt at writing out a pattern that I’ve made, so bear with me! As a warning: this cozy was made especially for my own hot water bottle, which measures approximately 12 inches long and 7.5 inches wide. I’ve a feeling most hot water bottles are around that size as well.

Materials: Red Heart Acrylic Yarn
Needles: 7US / 4.5 mm
Gauge: 4 stitches and 6 rows = 1 inch
First Side:
Cast on 30 sts
***start with a Purl row, continue in stockinette for 43 rows

Decreasing for bottle neck:
Over next 10 rows: Decrease 2 stitches at each end of Knit rows 3 times
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of Knit row 2 times

continue for 15 rows in stockinette stitch
Bind off***

Second side:
Cast on 30 stitches and stockinette stitch for 7 rows
Next: follow directions for “Decreasing for Bottleneck” (pattern between *** and ***)
Next: Knit 5, Cast off 4, Knit 5
Next: Purl 5 Cast ON 4 over the space created by casting off, Purl 5

Increasing over next 10 rows:
Increase 1 stitch at each end of Knit row 2 times
Increase 2 stitches at each end of Knit row 3 times

at this point, you should have 30 stitches

Next: follow directions for first half (all pattern between the ***stars***).

Another warning: I made this pattern up before I was smart enough to make button holes. So, I would suggest that one adds more length to the body of the cozy and creates a button hole so that it can be fastened shut. Without button making skills, I simply crocheted a little yarn into a sting to tie it together. Buttons would be much nicer!

Hot Water Bottle Cozy – Free Pattern!

New Design: Pleat Sleek


Now please understand, folks, that I haven’t always been a Shawl Knitter.

And I’m not even sure I’d say I’m really totally one yet. The things that get my heart a-pattering about designs aren’t usually found in shawls.

But, when presented with a design challenge of “make something with one hank of lovely sock weight yarn!” those creative constraints unleashed my generally bold and a bit wacky ideas.

Pleat Sleek is the result of this playful dance into the world of the shawl(ette).

This design:

  • has a weird shape that sits perfectly across your shoulders
  • includes whole lot of mesh to keep it airy
  • features a swooping garter section
  • is fantastic for all that varigaeted sock yarn I know you have!
  • takes only about 1 full hank of sock yarn
  • and perhaps best of all, a super fun section of pleats that tuck in the neckline and make the shawl sit perfectly up against your neck

You can get this pattern in my Ravelry shop here.

Sample in photo knit in the beautiful Wingenhooven from indigodragonfly.

New Design: Pleat Sleek

Season One Stole


Hey everyone, it’s a new pattern!


This is a rectangular stole that has eight bands of simple-to-create knit/purl texture, each representing one of the first eight episodes of the tv show Twin Peaks.

There’s a suggested order to the eight different textures, but you can easily move them around to suit your tastes: maybe you LOVE the 4th episode. Make that section bigger!

One size: 50” long 19” wide.
blocked size.

CSDye “Suspect Sport”
100% superwash merino, 328 yds per 100 g skein.
Shown in This Cherry Pie is a Miracle.
3 skeins.

3.25 mm (US 3) circulars or straights

21 sts & 32 rows = 4” in Chart 1, blocked.
Adjust needle size to obtain gauge.

Tapestry Needle, Stitch Markers

Knit in the elegant Suspect Sport yarn from CSDye, with the aptly named “This Cherry Pie is a Miracle!”, you can indulge in a Twin Peaks-ean yarn, colour, and design. Just in time for the NEW season!

The talented dyer behind CSDye is Amanda. She writes, “(s)ince Twin Peaks aired, I have been fascinated by puzzles, “whodunits”, crime and justice. I went to university for Forensic Anthropology and my career as a CSI has afforded me many amazing opportunities, including training at the world renowned Body Farm in Knoxville, Tennessee.”

If you dig the idea of her Twin Peaks inspired yarns, here are all four of the colourways she sells named from the show:


left to right: Wrapped in Plastic, This Cherry Pie is a Miracle!, The Voice of Love


Season One Stole