Flying Fox: Here Comes the Summer

This is a throwback to a post published on April 28, 2008.

Call me the procrastination knitter: when I set myself to get something done, I end up knitting something else instead.
Here’s an example:


Pattern: Flying Fox (notes posted below)
Yarn: almost 5 entire skeins of Elsebeth Lavold Silky Tweed

I’m semi-pleased by the way this one turned out.
I originally had envisioned incredible batwing sleeves for this knit (hence the name – oh how I love naming the knits!). Unfortunately, my impatience to get this one on the way had me skipping important forethought regarding the shaping. I’m sure if I actually thought about it, I could have made it look more like the vision in my mind.
I also had to exercise some big-time will power to refrain from gussying this one up. As you can see (if you’re familiar with any of my other designs) I gravitate towards the prettily-detailed. This one is decidedly minimalist. This was a tactic, so that I could focus on the drapey sleeves and neckline.


I fear the yarn is discontinued: I read that somewhere on the internets. Then again, I read lots of stuff on the internets. I hope it isn’t, because I really really love this yarn. Lovely and drapey.


Please don’t mind the smirky grin on me face.

Awaiting me at home is yet more procrastin-knitting. I’ve just had some golden Debbie Bliss Pure Silk wound into usable yarn-balls. There’s also some scarletty bamboo that’s calling my name.
And here comes the summer!
Pattern notes:

gauge – 22 sts=4″ on 4 mm needles

Cast on 108. Join for knitting in the round.
Place marker at the beginning of the round; work 2×2 ribbing across 54 sts, place marker, work 2×2 ribbing for the rest of the round.
Knit 2×2 ribbing for 11″.

When piece measures 11″, work increase row:
You will begin working back and forth.
*increase 1 st into next 3 sts, knit 1*
repeat until you reach side marker, increase into last 2 sts
(95 sts across the front now)

Slip marker, add new yarn, increase into first st, knit 1,
*increase 1 st into next 3 sts, knit 1* repeat until next marker.
This is the back. I recommend leaving this side to work until you’ve completed the front.

Working the front:
Turn work to wrong side facing, purl across.
Next row: Right side facing, knit across.
Next row: Wrong side facing, cast on 24 sts, purl across, place marker after these 24 sts, purl across sts, place marker, cast on 24 sts.
Next row: Right side facing, knit across all sts.

Knit these 119 sts until sleeve measures 2.5″.
At 2.5″, work as follows until sleeve measures 4.5″:
Right side facing – knit across sleeve, slip marker, decrease one st, knit across front until 2 sts before marker, decrease one st, slip marker, work across sleeve to end of row.
Wrong side: purl.

When sleeve measures 4.5″:
stop working these decreases, and simply knit the right side of the work and purl the back until the sleeve measures 8″.

When sleeve measures 8″:
Right side facing: Decrease 2 sts at each end of every row five times.
Wrong side: purl.

After you’ve completed all 5 decrease rows, cast off.

Work back same as front.

Sewing back and front together:
I simply stitched the front and back together, beginning at the first decrease-row worked when the sleeve was 8″ long.
(the sleeve will be slightly curved here. I just began stitching at this curve).
I stitched each side together for 5 inches.


Flying Fox: Here Comes the Summer

Hew; or, what I did in Toronto

This is a throwback to a post published on March 7, 2008.

I’d like to announce to the knitworld that I love Manos Silk.
Here’s what it told me to make it into:
Pattern: Hew (available as a pdf download on Ravelry. I have, rather unfortunately, not figured out the delicate art of pdf-ing).
Yarn: 2 skeins of Manos Silk


This pattern was a bit of a departure for me. Usually I think on a design for quite a while, sketching and dreaming. Hew just grew itself, in a manner that I’m certainly not used to when it comes to knitting. It was a very organic process, which brought me to a wearable and rather enjoyable finished garment.


My issues: because it was such an ‘organic’ knit, it’s a bit loose in some areas and a bit tight in others. It sort of works out, but I’ve found myself tugging at the bottom edge and re-tying the ties every once in a while to keep it below-bust.

I’ve kept pattern notes this time, so I hope I can accurately tell you knitgentry (for this I shall title you) how it grew and how to make it grow for other sizes.


By CanarySanctuary

Bust 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54)

Manos Silk 2 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5)
4 mm circs (16” or longer)

5.5 sts / 1” on 4 mm needles

Pattern Notes:
Garter Rib: RS – K1, P1 to end
WS – P all stitches

This garment is constructed as a top-down raglan, with minimal seaming.

**Note: please be understanding. This is the first pattern I’ve attempted to size!

Cast on 96 (102, 114, 128, 132, 146, 150, 168, 168, 182, 182) sts.
Knit across 6 (6, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18) place stitch marker, knit in garter rib 12 (12, 16, 18, 18, 22, 22, 26, 26, 28, 28) place marker, knit 60 (66, 66, 72, 72, 78, 78, 84, 84, 90, 90) place marker, knit in garter rib 12 (12, 16, 18, 18, 22, 22, 26, 28, 28) place marker.
Arms are now marked for raglan increases.

From now on, do raglan increases in the manner written below until stitches for back number 82 (88, 90, 94, 96, 98, 98, 100, 100):

Raglan increases:
Knit across 6 (6, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18), slip the marker, increase 1, knit ribbing across arm stitches until one stitch before marker, increase 1, slip the marker, increase 1, knit across back stitches until 1 stitch before marker, increase 1, slip the marker, increase 1, knit ribbing across arm until one stitch before marker, increase 1, slip the marker, knit to the end.

When you have the number of stitches for the back, continue increasing for the arms (but not for the back!) until they fit comfortably around your upper arm.

When the arms fit around your upper arm:
Knit along front 6 (6, 8, 10, 12, 12, 14, 16, 16, 18, 18), slip the marker, cast off all arm stitches, take off second marker, knit across back, slip marker, cast off all arm stitches, take off second marker, knit until the end.

Increasing for bust:
Right Side Rows: Knit 1, increase 1, knit across all stitches until 2 stitches from the end, increase 1, knit 1.
Wrong Side Rows: Purl.
Work in this manner until number of stitches for front are 22 (22, 32, 32, 44, 44, 56, 56, 66, 66, 78).

***KEEP TRYING ON THE GARMENT to see how far it’s coming down your bust.
When you put the shrug on and it comes down 1 inch below your bust, begin the ties.

With the RS facing, cast on 200 (206, 212, 224, 224, 230, 236, 247, 247, 260, 260).
Work garter rib across to end. Cast on 100 (103, 106, 112, 112, 115, 118, 121, 121, 124, 124).
From this point on, work garter rib, decreasing one stitch at the end of every row.
When the ties are 1 (1, 1, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 2, 2, 2, 2) inches wide, cast off all stitches.

Work entire neckline in garter rib.
Pick up 20 (20, 26, 26, 32, 32, 38, 38, 44, 44) along top of left tie.
Each RS row, pick up one stitch from edge of neckline and knit it together with first stitch of garter rib.
Work in this manner all the way around the edge of the neckline until you get to the right tie.
Finish off by grafting/Kitchener stitching the garter rib neckline to the top of the right tie.

Hew; or, what I did in Toronto

Le Lapin Noir

This is a throwback to a post published on March 16, 2008.

Hop hop.

on Ravelry


Pattern: Le Lapin Noir
Yarn: a whack of angora I bought many ages ago from Cottage Craft Angora

Why I love this one:
and oh, how I do!
Despite numerous mistakes (and I’ve learned to live with the multitude of errors I incorporate into each and every knit!) I love the fit, I like the shape, and it’s successfully fulfilled a search I have been undertaking to find the perfect argyle sweater for nigh on 2 years now.


Unless you’re looking for one, you probably wouldn’t realize that practically every bloody argyle sweater in stores has a v neck. I wanted a scoop neck.

Also, I’m fairly picky when it comes to the colours I wear. Though, I will hazard anyone interested in knitting a very small-gauge sweater in black: not so good for maintaining good vision.


I would have made 3/4 length sleeves (as is my way) but I ran out of black yarn. I think the short sleeves work alright, and are less incongruous than one would imagine on an angora sweater.

The yarn is amazingly dreamily soft. Just as soft (dare I say?) as the bellies of canaries. Highly recommended. Knit yourself an angora sweater.


This sweater was inspired by retro patterns and the angora yarn itself. I’d never worked with it before, and wanted to see how it behaved.
I’ve worn it a few times, and have found it to be sturdier than I would have imagined. I feared it would stretch to frightening proportions as soon as I was moving around in it. This didn’t happen at all.
I also feared it would pill horribly. This also hasn’t happened (yet).
As I understand angora is (one of the) warmest fibres one can wrap around a body, I feared it might overheat me. I had no such problems.
As you can see, it creates a beautiful halo of bunny-goodness all around you.
I didn’t block it (shock and horror!). I wasn’t sure how it would take to the water. I’m entirely pleased with the intarsia, though, and I don’t know that it would benefit from a blocking anyhow.


Le Lapin Noir
Spurred on by my inability to find a good argyle sweater, Le Lapin Noir was created with retro sweater-girl inspiration.
To make it a suitable warmer-weather knit, a light sock yarn could be substituted.Needles:
2.5 mm straights
2.25 mm circs (at least 18” long)

Cottage Craft Angora 100% angora yarn
Approx. 90 metres/hank (discontinued)
Black 8 (9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18) hanks
Pink 1 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) hanks
White 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) hanks

8 sts/ inch
10 rows/ inch

XS: 28”-30”
S: 32”-34”
L: 40”-42”
XL: 44”-46”
XXL: 48”-50”
XXXL: 52”-54”


Using long-tail method and 2.5mm needles, cast on 92 (108, 124, 144, 160, 184, 200) sts.
Knit in 1×1 ribbing for 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) inches.
Decrease row: You will be decreasing 2 sts each side every time you do a decrease row.
K1, P2tog, K2tog, knit in rib across sts until 5 before the end of the row. Then Kl, P2tog, K2tog, P1.
*Continuing in rib, knit another 1 (1, 0.5, 0.5, 0.5, 0.75, 0.5) inches.
Work another decrease row as stated above.
Repeat from * 1 (1, 1, 3, 3, 4, 2) more times.
At this point you should have 80 (96, 112, 124, 140, 164, 184) sts.
Knit in rib until you have 6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8) inches from the cast on edge.
Stop working rib, and begin working the intarsia chart.
Begin at number 1 (1, 1, 10, 10, 14, 13) listed at bottom of intarsia chart. This will centre your argyle on the sweater.
Work the chart for 1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) inches.
Increase row: You will be increasing 1 st each side every time you do an increase row.
(Work argyle pattern in to increases).
K1, increase 1, work across row until 2 sts before end, increase 1, knit last st.
*Work another 0.5 inches.
Work increase row.
Repeat from * 4 (1, 4, 8, 8, 8, 6) more times.
You should have 96 (102, 124, 144, 160, 184, 200) sts.
Now you will continue knitting the intarsia until piece measures 13 (13.5, 15.5, 15.5, 15.5, 16.5, 16.5) inches from the cast on edge.
Work across 27 (32, 42, 50, 56, 66, 74) sts, put middle 38 (38, 40, 44, 48, 52, 52) sts on a stitch holder, work across the remaining 27 (32, 42, 50, 56, 66, 74) sts.
Work 2 rows
Cast off for armholes: (please read ahead – you’ll be shaping the neck at the same time!)
Cast off 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 12, 14) sts on each side of next 2 rows.
Decrease 1 st each side every RS row 4 (4, 6, 8, 8, 8, 8) times.
Decrease 1 st each side of neck every RS row 12 times.
Work until arm holes measure 7 (7, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) inches.
Put sts on holders.


Work the back in the same manner as the front (excluding the intarsia chart) until neckline.
When piece measures 14.5 (14.5, 16.5, 16.5, 16.5, 17.5, 17.5) inches, put centre 38 (38, 40, 44, 48, 52, 52) sts on a stitch holder, and work the neckline the same as for the front.
Sew front and back together along sides, and graft/Kitchener stitch tops of front and back together.


Using 2.25 mm circular needles, pick up stitches along neckline, including the ones you’ve placed on stitch holders.
Work in a 1×1 rib for 1.5 (1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 2, 2, 2) inches.
Cast off (be careful: don’t cast off loosely!)


Cast on 76 (76, 88, 96, 108, 116, 128) sts.
Work 1×1 rib for 1 (1, 1.5, 1.5, 2, 2, 2.5) inches.
Begin Sleeve Cap:
Cast off 8 (8, 9, 10, 12, 12, 14) sts at the beginning of next 2 rows.
Knit in rib for 4 rows.
Decrease 1 st each side every other row 5 (5, 7, 9, 10, 14, 15) times.
Decrease 1 st each side every 4th row 10 (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10) times.
When sleeve cap measures 5.5 (5.5, 6, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5) inches, decrease 1 st each side every row 5 (5, 7, 7, 10, 8, 9) times.
When sleeve cap is 6 (6, 6.5, 7.5, 8.5, 9, 9.5) inches from cast on edge, decrease 2 sts each side every other row 5 (5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6) times.
When sleeve cap is 7 (7, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) inches long, cast off.


Sew sleeves onto body.
Weave in all ends.
Blocking the finished garment is optional (the original, knit in angora, was not blocked).


Intarsia can easily become a hassle of tangled ends. In order to keep sane, I wound and then cut off a few feet of each colour-section. This certainly did add to the number of ends I had to weave in come finishing time, but was slightly more manageable than large balls of yarn emanating from my work.

Think twice before you use black! (If only to maintain decent eyesight). You can’t imagine how frustrating it is to try and neatly sew up black knitted garments with tiny gauges!

Intarsia Chart
Garment Schematic

Le Lapin Noir


This is a throwback to a post published on September 19, 2007.

Alatus: Winged

On Ravelry

I must admit that Latin is not a strong point, but when I was thinking of what creative name I could come up with for this knit, I took the easy way out and simply described the item in another language. (sneaky creativity)
From the front, and unassuming (if extremely low-cut) sweater.

And from the back, my experiment with cable-mapping.

And un-modeled, depicting the truer-to-life chocolate brown loveliness that is Louisa Harding’s yarn.


Pattern: Alatus (self designed exploration of cable mapping)
Yarn: Grace by Louisa Harding (6 skeins)
Things I’d change: As usual, there are several. First, I’d add some more space to the front-sides around the neckline. I’d also curve the neckline a bit more too. It came out more square than I had envisioned. I’d be more careful about shaping the sleeve cap (since I had to pull them both out several times to achieve a normal-appearing shape). The sleeve-holes would be about an inch longer too. It’s not tight there, but there certainly could be more room. I’d also be more meticulous in my counting for the pattern. Unfortunately, up near the arm shaping, I ran out of room and had to sacrifice a feather or two.

What I love about it: mostly the yarn. It’s like butter. Oh so wonderful, and the most perfect shade of chocolate brown I’ve ever seen in a yarn. Highly recommended.
Three-quarter sleeve rock the boat. You save yarn, it still keeps you warm, and yet you don’t have to worry about the cuffs getting worn or crappy. It also saves time on the much-dreaded sleeve knitting.

This knit depends on another (as yet unfinished) knit for a large part of it’s prettiness. I’ll photo them together when/if I can get it completed before October 1. (mais oui, self-imposed deadlines once again).

I’ve been playing with the idea of posting the cable chart, but I think it’s only discernible by me.

Come on cold weather! I can’t wait to wear this puppy!

***Link to Pattern on Craftster***




Hot Water Bottle Cozy – Free Pattern!

This is a throwback from an original post on September 21, 2006.

This is my first attempt at writing out a pattern that I’ve made, so bear with me! As a warning: this cozy was made especially for my own hot water bottle, which measures approximately 12 inches long and 7.5 inches wide. I’ve a feeling most hot water bottles are around that size as well.

Materials: Red Heart Acrylic Yarn
Needles: 7US / 4.5 mm
Gauge: 4 stitches and 6 rows = 1 inch
First Side:
Cast on 30 sts
***start with a Purl row, continue in stockinette for 43 rows

Decreasing for bottle neck:
Over next 10 rows: Decrease 2 stitches at each end of Knit rows 3 times
Decrease 1 stitch at each end of Knit row 2 times

continue for 15 rows in stockinette stitch
Bind off***

Second side:
Cast on 30 stitches and stockinette stitch for 7 rows
Next: follow directions for “Decreasing for Bottleneck” (pattern between *** and ***)
Next: Knit 5, Cast off 4, Knit 5
Next: Purl 5 Cast ON 4 over the space created by casting off, Purl 5

Increasing over next 10 rows:
Increase 1 stitch at each end of Knit row 2 times
Increase 2 stitches at each end of Knit row 3 times

at this point, you should have 30 stitches

Next: follow directions for first half (all pattern between the ***stars***).

Another warning: I made this pattern up before I was smart enough to make button holes. So, I would suggest that one adds more length to the body of the cozy and creates a button hole so that it can be fastened shut. Without button making skills, I simply crocheted a little yarn into a sting to tie it together. Buttons would be much nicer!

Hot Water Bottle Cozy – Free Pattern!

Knit-Strology; Or, Extrapolations Based on General and Specific Nonsense

Starting today and once every month, I’ll be re-posting from the old blog all the Knitstrology posts

What’s Your Sign?

This one was originally posted on January 10, 2012.

Want to knit your own personalized astrology sign pillow? Check out my “What’s Your Sign?” pattern!

Sketching a Personality; Or, How I Have fun with Knitting and Astrology

I’m far from being an expert on anything (except perhaps the dietary inclinations of yellow songbirds and which specialty cheese would best match your current mood), but I’ve decided it might be great kicks to manufacture some amusing knitting-personalities based on the sketches astrology provides.

Disclaimer: I don’t believe in astrology.
Full Disclosure: I LOVED astrology in high school. Thought it was the bee’s knees and so forth. So, I’m familiar with the proclivities and fatal traits associated with each sign.

So, for your amusement and reading pleasure, I’ll be posting these sketches every other day til they’re all up.

First, I’ll start where the astrological wheel starts: Aries.

Aries: The Sign of the Ram
March 21 – April 20

Hello Aries.

You have a ram as your sun sign counterpart; talk about serendipitous!

Your courageous and optimistic nature leads you to gallop headlong into new projects and challenges. Good for you! It’s wonderful to expand your knowledge base and take on new skills.
The downfall here is when that new challenge is proving to be more trouble than its worth; across the room it flies! Impatience and a short temper can adversely affect the outcome of these brave new endeavours.

Take heart, though! You might have faults, but you have plenty of positive traits as well!

Your generosity leads you to be something of a gift-knitter, one of those whom put their knitting time on the line to give to others.
Your enthusiasm for your knitting brings excitement to those other knitters in your group who may be of a more subdued nature.
And speaking of that knitting group; your natural confidence and leadership skill make your absence from the regular meetings very much missed, but don’t feel bad about your independent nature leading you to seek more “alone time” knitting.

While you might not be the best person to teach someone else to knit (patience isn’t one of your virtues!) you’re great with advice; your frank, direct and candid countenance will stop someone from buying that horrid yarn you know they’ll regret later. Your recommendations on good patterns for taste and skill level will be much appreciated!

Aries rules the head and face: knit hats for yourself and other Aries in your life.
Red is your colour; if you’re stuck and don’t know what colour yarn to buy for an Aries, a beautiful fiery red is the answer.
Try to start your projects on Tuesday; it’s your lucky day of the week.

Knit-Strology; Or, Extrapolations Based on General and Specific Nonsense